Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Holiday Sewing: Custom Asymmetrical Men's Vest

Merry Christmas!

I've been a busy bee this year, and I've grossly neglected my blog. However, I have posted my projects on my other pages so you can see what I've been up to here, here, here & here.  Next year, I'll do better, I promise.
I decided  to leave 2014 on a high note and show you all a vest that I made for my brother.
It was his design concept and I just did all the heavy lifting, like drafting, sample making, and construction.
Please note that I've never taken a formal pattern drafting class.  I've picked up what I know from years of sewing, viewing videos, blogs, tips, etc..but primarily by the grace of God.
I think that my techniques are somewhat unconventional at times as I often modify commercial patterns to avoid having to create a sloper, but as long as it gets the job done I do what I feel works.

Case in point:

My brother decided to pick out his own fabrics. Well… he picked a STRETCH velvet and a silver lame jacquard paisley fabric. I cringed, but I ended up interfacing the velvet and it stabilized it quite well and the lame was a good complement to the velvet.
The cut is made up of asymmetrical concave curves that I traced on the muslin. I added double welted pockets at the waist and a single welt upper left pocket. The buttons are clear acrylic fashion buttons which add a bit of sparkle. The lining is a poly lining.
I have to add that my brother is a musician, so the drama in this vest is on point.
It took about 4 days total between fittings and pattern revisions and the final look, but I love the result.
He's ready to party!

Final look

Drafted pattern from a commercial vest pattern adding several modifications.
Here I was creating style lines for the separate neck band and hem band.

I cut off the neckband and hem band pieces  along the style lines I drew, then added seam allowances
back and voila!, a Muslin.  Success!

Left front layout.  Welt pockets sewn in and looking good.  It's coming along nicely. 

After adding the neck and hem bands.  I think it's gonna work. 

Brother approved.  Open posture indicates that he is pleased.
You'd never know that this is stretch velvet. 

Thank you for viewing my blog.
Stay tuned for 2015....there's more to see.


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